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Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics 

United States Department of Agriculture and State 
Agricultural Colleges Cooperating 



SEWING FOR GIRLS' CLUB WORK 



OlA POWELL 

Assistant in Home Demonstration Work 




U NITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE 
DEPARTMENT CIRCULAR 2 



Contribution from the States Relations Service 

(Office of Extension Work South) 

A. C. TRUE, Director 



Washington, D. C. 



May, 1919 



WASHINGTON : GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1919 



Moaog^rapl^ 



\LL REGULAR CANNING CLUB MEMBERS in the 

-^^ South are required to make a uniform cap and apron, 
holder, and cup towel for use in their canning work. During 
1917, 44,146 caps and aprons, 8,803 towels, 7,010 holders, 
5,919 dresses, 57 sewing screens, and 6,727 miscellaneous 
articles were reported made by club members. These figures 
were more than doubled during 1918, in spite of the fact that 
the regular program for third and fourth year club members 
was replaced by some form of Red Cross relief work. 

Since the making of these articles has a distinct bearing 
on other club activities, special instructions have been 
requested by both the club members and home-demonstra- 
tion agents. This circular is prepared to answer this need. 
In the well-organized counties, where sufficient aid is given 
by the teachers, many club members have extended this 
work until they make all their own clothes and also help to 
make and mend clothing for the household. An outline of a 
suggestive four-year program of sewing work for canning 
club girls is included in this circular. 






SEWING FOR GIRLS' CLUB WORK. 

UNIFORMS AND EQUIPMENT FOR VARIOUS CLUB ACTIVITIES IN A FOUR-YEAR 

PROGRAM. 



THE making of the articles described in this circular serves to teach 
the girls something about sewing and to arouse their pride and inter- 
est in all of their club work. The gardening set may be made vety early 
in the spring before there is a rush of outdoor work and the uniforms 
before the busy canning season begins. The other pieces are suggested 
with reference to the progressive interest and needs from year to year. 
Each year's problems are a little more difficult than the year before and 
require greater skill. If the privilege of wearing the emblems is won 
by a year's satisfactory club work it enhances their value to the girls. 

GARDEN^G SET. 

This set is an attractive and useful equipment for the garden. The 
kneeling pad and tool apron protect the clothing and make trans- 
planting more easily done. 
Small plants are conven- 
iently carried in the pocket 
of the pad and the tools in 
the pockets of the apron. 
These outfits should be at- 
tractively made, and, if pos- 
sible, be uniform throughout 
the county. 

GARDEN KNEELING PAD. 

This pad (fig. 1) may be 
made of matting, burlap, 
denim, oilcloth, heavy can- 
vas, or even an old rug or 
piece of carpet. Matting 
lined with brown denim is 
very suitable material, be- 
cause this color does not 
show soil easily. The matting lined with brown denim and bound 
with red tape makes an attractive color combination. If cloth 
without the matting is used, it will be necessary to cut the pattern 
double and place a heavy cardboard between the outside and the 
lining, in order to hold the shape when finished. Cotton tape is used 
for binding the edges together and for the handles. An oblong piece 

3 




Fig. 1. — Garden kneeling pad. 



DEPAETMENT CIKCULAR 2, TJ. S. DEPT. OF AGR. 




Fig. 2.— Pattern for making garden Imeeling pad. 



of black oilclotli sewed on the underside of the bottom will protect 

the pad and keep the cushion dry. 

Material. — One-half yard of matting, one yard of denim, one roll of 

1-inch tape, and one 
•^' " ~*^ oblong of black oil- 
cloth will be sufficient 
to make this pad. 

Directions for cut- 
ting and m.ahing 
pad. — Cut a paper 
pattern by the meas- 
urements given in 
figure 2. The oblong 
may be made larger 
or smaller as desired. 
When such changes 

are made, however, the side ends which fold around should be made 

long or short enough to just meet the back corners of the bottom. 

Cut the Uning first and pin it to the matting. The two edges should 

be bound with the cotton tape at once to keep the matting from 

raveling. 

PocTcet. — Cut a strip 15 by 9 inches for the pocket. Place a 1-inch 

hem at the top, and sew the bottom of the pocket along the dotted 

line on the inside of the front of the frame before the sides are folded 

around and fastened to the 

sides of the bottom. Run 

a rubber band through the 

hem to hold the top edge 

straight across but do not 

stretch the rubber. Stitch 

the sides of the pocket to 

the inside of the front and 

the pocket will be finished. 
Bottom. — -Cut an oblong 

of black oilcloth for the bot- 
tom and sew it securely 

around the edge of the 

underside of the bottom, 

then fold each side to meet the sides of the bottom and sew them 

together. 

Handle. — Fasten the ends of one piece of tape, 40 inches long, to the 

back corners of the fiame; also sew ends of another piece of tape the 

same length to the lower front corners of the frame; fasten the latter 

also to the top of the front. Bring these loose loops together and 

fasten. This handle, when not in use, will drop inside the pad. 




Fig. 3.— Apron for tools. 



SEWIIsrG FOE GIELS CLUB WOKK. 



Pad. — Make a cushion of the hning to fit flat on the inside of tliis 
frame and stuff it with cotton, or cover a thick piece of felt with 
the same material. This cushion should be fastened to the bottom 
of the kneeling pad. 

APRON FOR TOOLS. (Fig. 3.) 

Material. — One-half yard of cloth and 3 yards of tape for binding 
is sufficient material for this garment. 

Directions for cutting and maJcing apron. — Cut a pattern by dimen- 
sions given in figure 4. Bind the edges with tape. Use one piece, 
60 inches long, for binding sides and bottom of apron. To fit the 
apron cut it out a little across the top, allowing center of the top 
to be cm'ved downward 
about 2 inches lower than 
the top of the sides. Place 
a half-inch dart 2 inches 
from the center on each side 
of the top. Taper these 
darts to a point 4 inches 
above the bottom of the 
pocket and stitch them in 
place. Hem the ends of a 
piece of tape 36 inches long 
and bind the top of the 
apron, leaving an even 
length on each side for tjang 
strings. Fold the pattern 
on the dotted line and stitch 
to form the pockets. The 
center pocket stitched in V shape will leave a slanting pocket on 
each side. Tlie handles of the tools carried in these pockets will 
slope back under the arms, and will not interfere with the motion 
of the arms when at work. This arrangement will be found much 
more convenient than straight pockets. 

A broad-brimmed sun hat lined with the same color used for the 
apron and lining of the pad, with a band of the same colored tape 
which was used for binding, will complete a very attractive garden 
outfit for both the girls and women (fig. 5). 

AMOUNT OF MATERIAL TO BUY. 

The things to be taken into consideration in determining how much 
material to buy are: The amount needed for each article, the number 
of articles to be made, and the width of the material. In making 
flat articles, like towels and holders, the problem is quite simple; for 
instance, it is obvious that the amount of yard-wide material neces- 




FiG. 4.— Pattern for making apron for tools. 



DEPARTMENT CIRCULAR 2, U. S. DEPT. OF AGR. 



sary to make six holders, each of which requires a piece 13 by 18 
inches, is three times 13 inches, or 39 inches. If the holders are cut 
the other way of the goods, 1 yard of 40-inch material would be 

sufficient. 

HOLDERS. 

The purpose of the holder is to protect the hands when lifting hot 
dishes. Heat passes very easily through certain materials, the 
metals for instance, and with difficulty through others. The former 
are known as good conductors of heat, and the latter as poor con- 
ductors of heat. Air is one of the very poor conductors and the 

effectiveness of m.any 
poorly conducting sub- 
stances is due to the pres- 
ence of much air in the 
meshes or between the 
particles of the material. 
The meshes must be small 
and the particles close to- 
gether, however, so that 
currents of air do not pass 
through, for air in motion 
would carry the heat. 

Tlie holder, like the 
packing of the tireless 
cooker, must be made of 
material through which 
heat passes with difficulty. 
Most holders are made of 
cloth, and since loosely 
woven or knitted cloth 
entangles more air than 




Fig. 5.— The garden kneeling pad in use 



does tight, smooth material, stockinet and similar fabrics are often 
employed. In addition, holders are usually made of several layers 
of cloth, the air spaces between adding greatly to their effective- 
It is best not to have the holder fastened to one's belt 



ness. 



It is suggested that holders might be very easily rendered ffieproof 
by simply dipping them into a solution of certain chemicals and 
drying them. Comimon ones which can be purchased at drug 
stores are ammonium phosphate and ammonium chlorid. Asbestos 
paper is sometimes employed in holders, but is rather stiff and clumsy. 
Tlie holder recommended for use in club work consists of six layers 
of cotton cloth, and since the cloth is not especially porous, the insu- 
lating power of the holder depends largely upon the five air spaces 
between the layers. One reason for choosing this material was that 
its smooth surface renders it less liable to catch fire than stockinet, 



SEWING FOR girls' CLUB WORK. 7 

cottoii flannel, or other soft, fuzzy material. Tlie holder has the 
further advantages of being easy to make, easy to launder, and 
flexible. 

TO MAKE THE HOLDERS. 

Material. — For each holder, a piece of cotton cloth — ^unbleached 
muslin or a cleaned flour sack — 13 by 18 inches. 

1. Fold down h inch along each long side and across one end, creas- 
ing firmly. 

2. Fold the whole piece of cloth in halves, lengthwise, and pin the 
edges together. You now have a double piece of cloth 17J inches 
long and 6 inches wide. 

3. Fold this over twice, so that you have a square about 6 inches 
on a side. 

4. Baste it neatly around the edge, and take a few long stitches in 
the center to hold the layers together. 

5. Sew diagonally from each corner to the opposite one, using the 
running stitch, or machine stitching. 

6. Finish around the edge with machine stitching, or the blanket 
stitch. 

7. Pull out the basting threads. 

8. Sew a loop of tape on the corner. 

TO MAKE THE LOOP OF TAPE. 

Material. — A piece of ^-inch cotton tape 5 inches long. 

1. Place the ends of the tape together and overhand the sides for f 
inch from the end. 

2. Spread the loop so that it lies flat. 

3. Baste the tape on one corner of the holder, having the raw ends 
underneath and the stitched edge of the tape exactly on a diagonal 
of the holder. About an inch and a half of the loop should project 
beyond the holder, 

4. Sew the tape to the holder, beginning at the right-hand side of 
the tape, where it crosses the edge of the holder, and hemming down 
this side across the bottom and up the other side. Fasten the thread 
firmly. 

Separate envelope covers may be made for these holders and these 
can be easily removed and laundered. This cover makes it easier 
always to have a clean holder, 

TOWELS AND DISHCLOTHS. 

Obviously, the chief requisite of towel material is that it shall 
absorb water quickly and easily. Other desirable characteristics are 
freedom from lint, quickness in drying, and low cost. 

Cotton and hnen are two of the common textiles. While cotton 
and linen are able to absorb about the same amounts of water, cotton 
absorbs it more slowly than does linen; the reason for this is the 



8 DEPARTMENT CIRGULAR 2, TJ. S. DEPT. OF AGR. 

presence of a slight coating of wax upon the cotton fibers, wliich 
repels water. This wax occurs naturallj'^ upon the fiber and is not 
completely removed in the ordinary processes of manufacture. The 
so-called absorbent cotton employed for medical purposes has under- 
gone a special treatment for the removal of the wax. Cotton fabrics, 
in general, gradually become more quickly absorbent as the wax 
wears off in use and washing. At their best, however, they are less 
satisfactory than linen. Cotton and linen differ also in the rapidity 
with which they dry. Linen dries the more quickly of the two. 
Owing to its longer fibers, linen is less liable than cotton to leave 
lint upon the dishes. 

The price of linen, which is usually higher than that of cotton, is 
sometimes mentioned as an argument against its use, but it should 
be remembered that coarse linens, such as are used for towels, are 
not expensive, and that while they may cost more than cotton towel- 
ing of equal weight they have advantages which often justify their 
price. 

Hand towels and dish towels are necessary in cooking. A small 
hand towel fastened to the belt is most convenient. A carefully 
bleached clean flour sack, domestic, or regular toweling may be used. 

TO MAKE THE TOWELS. 

Materials. — For each dish towel, 1 yard of toweling. For each 
hand towel, J yard of toweling, 4 inches of tape I inch wide. 

1. Straighten the ends of the towel by cutting by a thread. 

2. Make a ^-inch hem at each end and, if necessary, down the 
sides. 

3. Sew a loop of tape (see directions under '4iolder") on the corner 
of the hand towel, having the part of the loop which projects beyond 
the towel 1 inch long. This can be slipped over the button at the 
belt of the apron. 

DISHCLOTHS. 

These may be made of any clean pieces of white material. The 
good parts of worn towels, etc., may be cut out and hemmed for the 
purpose. Good dishcloths are made of two or three thicknesses of 
coarse, sleazy cheesecloth. They may be folded like the holder and 
stitched with the running stitch diagonally across the center. Ten 
inches square is a convenient size for the finished dishcloth. 

UNIFORM— CANNING CLUB APRON AND CAP. 

The garments selected for the club uniform were chosen because 
they cover the dress and hair well, are easy to make and to launder, 
and are inexpensive and pleasing. 

This uniform is worn by the girls in pubhc demonstrations and meet- 
ings, and is therefore made as attractive as possible. White materials 



SEWING FOR girls' CLUB WORK. 9 

are preferred in order that the uniforms of all the girls in a county 
may be alike. To embroider the emblems on the cap brim and 
apron strap will enhance their value and give opportunity for teach- 
ing some simple embroiderv^. The privilege of wearing these emblems 
is won by girls who have given their county agent a satisfactory 
report for complete first year's club work. 

APRON. (Fig. 6.) 

1/aimaZ.— Light-weight white percale or any other medium-weight 
white material will do. About 3 yards of 86-inch material will be 
needed. 

Cutting. — Cut the apron by a gored pattern, having front panel 
twice as wide as each side. It should give protection to the entire 
dress. Cut the belt and shoulder straps double; they should be 
2 inches wide when finished. Cut a bib 7^ inches long, 6 inches 
wide at top, and 4 inches wide at belt. Cut pockets like the pattern 
given. 

MaMng. — Face the curved opening of each pocket and stitch on the 
edge and | inch within. Baste the pockets on the front gore so that 
the short side edge will be sewed in with the side seam and the top 
edge will reach the top of the belt. Fold under the opposite edge of 
each pocket J inch and stitch it on the front gore, using two rows of 
stitching J inch apart. Sew the shoulder straps to the top of the 
pockets, leaving the outer edges of the two loose from the belt and 
giving the effect of the pocket and strap being cut in one piece. Let 
the belt pass under this strap. Fasten the belt with button and 
buttonhole. Let the strap cross in the back and fasten to belt in 
the same manner, having the buttonhole in the belt and button on 
strap so that the length of the strap may be changed when necessary. 
French seams may be used on the skirt. The hem at the bottom 
should be 2 inches wide. Place the emblem on the left strap (with 
the lower hue at the top of the bib). 

Note. — ^Aprons for the younger girls may have a gathered skirt, omitting the pockets. 
For them the cap, both crown and brim, may be cut smaller. 

CAP. (Fig. 7.) 

Material. — Let the brim l)e white, made of plain lawn of medium 
weight or, better still, of light-weight linen. Make the crown of 
thinner material, like dotted Swiss. It will take a piece 18 inches 
long and 16 inches wide for the crown and two pieces 10 inches long 
and 22 inches wide for the brim. The brim is roUed back half its 
width when finished and, in order to hold its shape when starched, 
is made double. 

Cutting. — Cut the brim, laying the front end of the pattern on fold 
of goods so that the only seam is at the back. Two such pieces are 
98500°— 19 2 



10 



DEPARTMENT CIRCULAR 2, U. S. DEPT. OF AGR. 




Fig. 6.— The apron pattern. 



SEWING FOR GIRLS CLUB WORK. 



11 



needed for each brim. The mside edge of brim should be the size of 
the head. Cut an oval piece for the crown 16 inches in diameter 
from side to side and 18 inches in diameter from back to front. 

Making. — Place the two pieces of the brim together, wrong sides 
out, and baste around the outer edge; that is, the one having a 
point on each side. Then stitch | mch from this edge. Now. turn 
the brim right side out, creas- 
ing the edge well. Stitch 
again | inch from the out- 
side edge. Gather the crown 
in fourths. Place outside 
edge of crown against inside 
edge of brim. Baste these 
two edges together, allowing 
a few more gathers at front 
and back than at sides. 
Turn the folded outside edge 
of brim over these two raw edges and baste carefully. Stitch | inch 
from edge so as to hold securely. Place the emblem on the left 
point. 

EMBLEMS. (Figs. 8 and 9.) 

The designs for the emblems shown in figures 8 and 9 were made 
for the canning club girls of the South by the art department of 
Sophie Newcomb College, New Orleans, La. 




Fig. 7.— Uniform canning club cap. 





Fig. 8.— Emblem for the cap. 



Fig. 9.— Emblem for apron. 



Material. — The emblems should be embroidered on squares of 
linen. Select a coarse-thread linen, cutting the piece for the cap 
emblem 3| inches square and the piece for the apron emblem 3 
inches square, to be appliqued to the brim and shoulder strap when 
finished. Use a mercerized stranded floss in two shades of blue and 
one shade of red. About 5 yards of darker blue, 4 yards of lighter 
blue, and 1 yard of red are enough to embroider one set of emblems- 

Caj) emblem (fig. 8). — Use outline stitch for making the square, 
circles, and letters in a medium shade of dull blue; make the periods 



12 



DEPAKTMENT . CIRCULAR 2, V. S. DEPT. OF AGR. 



of French knots. Then fill m the space between the circles with rows 
of running or seed stitches in lighter blue. To make these effective, 
let the needle pass over two or three threads, then under the same 
number and repeat. In returning let the needle pass mider the 
threads over which it passed before. The effect is similar to darning. 
These stitches should cross the design horizontally. This will make 
the letters stand out more plainly. Outline the tomato in red. Fill 
in the solid part with the same seed stitch in red, letting the stitches 
take the same direction as those within the circle. The design em- 
broidered in this way will be fiat and for this reason can be easily 
laimdered. It is more beautiful also than it would be if the attempt 
were made to pad the design and work it solid. If desired, the 
tomato stem and clover leaf may be worked in green. 

Apron design (fig. 9). — Outline the square, four H's, circle, and 
clover leaf in the way described in the cap design, using a darker 
shade of blue. FiU in the inside clover leaf with the rimning seed 
stitch in lighter blue or green. 

SEWING SCREEN. 

One of the most convenient devices for keeping all sewing equip- 
ment in place is a sewing screen (figs. 10 and 11). It consists 

of two panels (28 inches 
high and 13 J inches wide, 
made of 1 by 2 inch strips) 
hinged together and each 
panel is covered with bur- 
lap. The pockets are fast- 
ened to the bottom of each 
panel on the inside, and 
hooks are placed on the 
bottom of the crosspiece to 
hold the necessary equip- 
ment. Pegs or nails driven 
into the top of one of the 
crosspieces wiU hold the 
spools. The drop shelf 
makes a good worktable, 
and the groove in the top 
of the crosspieces will hold 

Fig. 10.— Sewing screen, showing frame before completion. bxittOUS. This folding SeW- 

ing screen is light m weight, requires little space, and can be easily 
carried to the porch or lawn for sewing work. 

The following supplies are convenient to have at hand in the screen 
before beginning to sew : 

Needles of good make and assorted sizes. Sizes 7, 8, 9, and 10 are 
most used. 




SEWING FOR GIRLS CLUB WORK. 



13 



Thread, also of good make and assorted sizes. A spool each of 
Nos. 50, 70, and 100, and basting thread should be on hand. 

A plain, substantial thimble. Celluloid or aluminum makes a 
good, inexpensive thimble; a brass one is not desirable, because it 
may stain the thimble finger if it gets moist with perspiration, and 
may poison if there is a sore place on the finger underneath it. 




Fig. 11. — Sewing screen, completed. 

A pair of sharp shears, with blades about 5 inches long, for cutting 
cloth. 

A pair of small, sharp scissors with good points, for cutting threads, 
removing bastings, etc. 

An abundance of medium-sized, sharp-pointed pins. Fine pins 
are easier to use than coarse ones. 

A small pincushion. . 

A tape measure. 

A few pieces of cardboard to use as gauges. 

A pencil. 



14 DEPAKTMENT CIRCULAE 2, U. S. DEPT. OF AGR. 

An emery bag for polishing needles and smoothing them when they 
become sticky. 

MATERIALS FOR BUILDING SCREENS. 

10 feet of lumber 1^ by H inches. 

6 1^-inch (butt) hinges with screws to be used in joining the panels 
and fastening the drop shelf to the crosspieces. 
1 handle with screws for the top of screen. 

1 hook and eye to fasten the panels when they are folded and 
closed. 

2 yards of burlap, denim, or canvas, 18 inches wide. 
1 dozen brass cup hooks. 

1 yard cretonne for pockets. 
1 yard ^-inch elastic for top of pockets. 
4 dozen upholstering tacks for tacking on burlap. 
Sandpaper and stain. 

Selecting colors. — Care should be taken in selecting good colors in 
both materials for pockets and outside covering. The colors in the 
cloth should harmonize with the color of the stain used for the wood. 
Oftentimes very good dyes and wood stains can be made from nut 
hulls, roots, berries, and bark of trees. The cloth, not being the 
same texture, will take the dye in a little different shade of the same 
color than the woodwork if the identical materials are used for 
maldng the stain for the frame. 

Wood stain. — To make a good brown stain for the frame cover 3 
pints of bruised green walnut hulls with 3 pints of water and allow 
to stand for 12 hours. Strain through a double cheesecloth and add 
1 ounce of permanganate of potash. This stain may be made in 
larger quantities and used for floor stain. It gives a rich brown floor 
finish. If a semiwaxy appearance is desired, 1 quart of paraffin oil 
can be added. This is on the market and can be purchased at a 
reasonable price. 

The darker shades of color will vary according to the amount of 
dyestuff used and the length of time the material is soaked or heated 
in it. 

Colors that harmonize. — 

Gray, with purple, red, blue, brown, or yellow. 
Yellow, with black, purple, blue, or green. 
Red, with black, blue, gray, ,or green. 
Lavender, with green or white. 
Old rose, with all blues. 
Brown, with blue, mauve, or gray. 
Heliotrope, with cream. 
Green, with brown. 



SEWING FOR girls' CLUB WORK. 15 

HOW TO USE COMMERCIAL PATTERNS.* 

1. In buying a pattern, be sure that its size is right. Patterns 
may be bought by age or by measure. If you are of normal size for 
youi- years, buy a pattern by age; if you think you may vary from 
the size, take your measure and buy a pattern that corresponds to it. 
Waist patterns are numbered according to bust measure; skirt pat- 
terns are numbered by both hip and waist measure. It is better to 
buy a skirt pattern of the correct hip size, as it is easier to make shght 
changes in it around the waist than to alter it on the hips. 

2. Before opening the pattern, read the directions carefully and 
thoroughly. 

3. Open the pattern and study the separate pieces. A guide chart 
is usually printed on the envelope, and will show you the purpose of 
the various pieces. Only half the pattern is given, in most cases, as 
the two sides of a garment are generally alike. Put back into the 
envelope any pieces which are not to be used at once. 

4. If the pattern is not your exact size, alter it as follows. 

(a) To lengthen a waist or skirt: Cut straight across each of the 
pieces that are too short, having the cuts exactly perpendicular to 
the line of dots which marks the lengthwise line of the goods. Insert 
a piece of paper as wide as you wish the pattern to be made longer; 
or, when cutting out the garment, lay the two cut parts of the pattern 
of the goods so that they are separated by a distance equal to the 
desired increase in length. When lengthening a skirt pattern, the 
pieces should be slashed about two-thirds of the distance from the 
top. In a waist, make the cut about 3 inches above the waist line. 
In either case, make sure that the insert is the same width throughout. 

To increase the width of a piece, slash it lengthwise and separate 
the pieces in the same way as in lengthening. 

, Another way of makmg a garment longer or broader than the pattern 
is to pin a pleat evenly in the goods, lay the pattern over it, and cut. 

(h) To shorten a pattern or make it smaller, take a pleat in it in 
the same position as suggested for the slashes. 

5. Spread the material out on a flat surface and arrange every 
piece of the pattern on it before beginning to cut. As many of the 
pieces are to be cut in dupHcate, one can often fold the material, lay 
the pattern on it, and cut out the two pieces at once. In cutting 
the back of a waist or the front gore (and sometimes the back gore) 
of a skirt, fold the material lengthwise, lay the straight edge of the 
pattern along the fold, and cut around the pattern except on this 
straight edge. Pieces to be cut in this way on a lengthwise fold are 
marked on the pattern with crosses, or in some other manner. 

Sometimes the guide chart indicates how to arrange the pattern 
on the goods so that there wiU be no unnecessary waste in cutting. 

1 Instruction for use of commercial patterns was contributed by Miss iVnna II. \\TiitteIsey, Scientific 
Assistant, Office of Home Economics. 



16 



DEPARTMEISTT CIRCULAR 2, V. S. DEPT. OF AGR. 



In any case, lay the pattern on so that the pieces come close together 
and the waste is as slight as possible. Be very careful that the 
lengthwise perforations of the pattern are upon the warp (length- 
wise) thread of the goods. Stripes or figures must run exactly up 
and down in the finished garment. 

6. Pin each piece of the pattern in several places, taking care 
that the curves and corners are flat on the goods. 

7. Cut out the pieces, allowing for seams, if allowance has not 
been made for them in the pattern; otherwise cutting exactly 
around the edge. Use large shears, and cut with a long steady 
stroke, not a short, choppy one. Accurate cutting is a great 
help toward a good-looking garment. Cut all notches as indicated 
by the pattern, using small scissors and being careful not to cut 
them so deep that they will interfere with the seams. Mark per- 
forations with chalk, pencil, or thread. 

8. Unpin the paper pattern, and fold all pieces carefuUy, and 
place at once in envelope. 

The calculations of the amount of material to buy in the case of 
garments are more elaborate. Most commercial patterns give a 
table statmg the amoimt of material of different widths necessary 
for the garment. If the amount is not stated it must be estimated, 
taking into consideration both the measurements of the patterns 
and of the person who is to wear the garment. 

SERVICEABLE DRESSES FOR DIFFERENT KINDS OF WORK. (Figs. 12, 13, and 14.) 

For use in public demonstrations second-year canning-club mem- 
bers make a simple dress (fig. 12). Pink or blue gingham 

or chambray, trimmed 
with white collar and cuffs, 
made with V-neck, short 
sleeves, plain gored skirt 
for the older girls and a 
gathered skirt for the 
younger members is an 
appropriate design which 
is easily made by club 
members who have had 
the sewing instructions in 
making the cap and apron. 
This style has been chosen 
and used by the girls be- 
cause it is a uniform dress, 
if well made, that will 
Fia. i2.-s.immer uniform dress. always be good Style, neat 

in appearance, and easily laimdered. Near the coast in some sec- 
tions, where colored materials quickly fade, white uniforms may be 





SEWING FOE GIRLS CLUB WORK. 



17 



more, satisfactory for canning work. Unbleached cotton cloth is 
easily obtained anywhere in the South and makes a serviceable dress 
which launders well. Gray or tan dresses worn with a white 
apron and cap make a neat uniform for canning work. The Hght- 
colored dress is soiled and stained easily among vines and dirt and is 
not suitable for garden or field work. In some sections the regular 
gymnasium bloomer and 
middy blouse combina- 
tion has been adopted as 
the gardening uniform 
(fig. 13). For comfort 
and economy European 
women engaged in agricul- 
tural work have adopted 
the overall for a gardening 
or field uniform. 

For advanced club 
members this design for 
a school dress was selected 
with the idea of secur- 
ing an attractive and 
durable garment suitable 
for use during the winter 
months (fig. 14). The 
style is one which will be 
good for a long time. It 
is neat and made on good 
lines for both large and 
small girls. It has a some- 
what tailored effect, and 
usually the more it is worn the better it is hked. A material darker 
in color and heavier m weight is better for the dress than material 
used for the summer dress. A good quaUty of wool serge would per- 
haps be the most serviceable, but some of our cotton cloth in the 
South is more desirable, especially in the far southern territory, 
because it is lighter in weight, more easily secured at a reasonable 
price, and it wiU launder well. Cotton rep, gaberdine and Hawaiian 
cloth are among the cotton materials which might be used. Dark 
blue is a very serviceable color and shades of bro^vn might also 
be used. Dresses of either color are attractive when worn with 
red ties or laces. The 4-H emblem may be embroidered on a 
separate square and appliqued on the left sleeve. There are com- 
mercial patterns very like the pattern suggested in the illustrations, 
the numbers of which your county agent will furnish to you, with the 
information as to where they can be purchased. 




Fig. 13.— a comfortable and practical gardening uniform. 



18 



DEPARTMENT CIRCULAR 2, U. S. DEPT. OF AGR. 



TABLE RUNNERS AND LUNCHEON SETS. 

The embroidered luncheon sets, to be made by third and fourth 
year club members, consist of a square centerpiece 36 by 36 inches and 
six napkins 18 mches square. The edge may be finished with a plain 
hem and outlined with the chain stitch or outlme stitch in colored 
floss on the outside, or it may be hemstitched or have the buttonhole 
stitch or a crochet and picot edge around the outside. Any of 
these look well and because they are fiat launder well. The designs 
usually suggested are in cross-stitch — patterns which do not need 

to be transferred or stamped 
on the material. A piece of 
coarse scrun large enough 
to carry the selected design 
is sewed in place on the 
piece to be embroidered and 
the pattern worked out on 
it by squares. The designs 
shown in figure 15 might be 
used by home demonstra- 
tion club members inter- 
ested in poultry work. 
Other designs symbolic of 
garden club, canning club, 
or poultry club may be 
used. The combining of 
colors to match the color 
scheme of the pattern used is 
very important, and here we 
have an opportunity to put 
together harmonizing shades. Select a cloth of good texture which 
will not easily stretch out of shape. Some of the following materials 
are suitable for making these sets: Linen crash, Indian head, cotton 
cr^pe, longcloth and basket weave or novelty cotton cloth. Two 
and one-half yards Indian head or similar material, two spools of No. 
70 cotton, and embroidery floss if desired, will be sufficient to make 
a 36-inch square centerpiece and six squares for napkins, 18 inches 
each. These sets are especially attractive for use at club entertain- 
ments, when the girls serve dainties made from their products, such 
as fruit juices and sandwiches, to a gathering of club members, 
mothers, or teachers. Their use may be most attractive on the 
porch or lawn. 

Table runners with designs placed on each end are very good iac 
use on either a round or square dming table when serving four per- 





FiG. 14. ^Winter uniform dress. 



SEWING FOR GIRLS CLUB WORK. 



19 



sons. These runners are 18 inches wide and 2^ yards long; the hems 
should measure 2 inches. Five yards of material, two spools white 
cotton thread No. 70, and embroidery floss if desired, will be suffi- 
cient. Four napkins, 18 inches square, will require an exrta yard 
of material 36 inches wide. 




Fig. 15. — Design for embroidered luncheon set. 

A FOUR- YEAR PROGRAM. 

The following is an outline of a suggested four-year program of 
sewing- work for canning-club girls: 

First year.— Canning-club members will make: 

Gardening set. 

Cup towel and holder. 

Apron and cap. 
Second year club Tuembers. — 

Apron and cap. 

Apron and cap emblems. 

Summer uniform dress. 



20 



DEPARTMENT CIRCULAR 2, U. S. DEPT. OF AGR. 



Third year club members. — - 

Cap and apron emblems. 

Summer uniform dress. 

Book cover for history of club work. 

Luncheon set — centerpiece and six napkins for porch or lawn 
serving, with designs symbolic for club work. 

Stencil portfolio or make wall pocket. 
Fourth year cluh Tnembers. — 

Cap and apron with emblems. 

Winter uniform dress. 

Sewing screen. 

Pair of table runners with four napkins. 



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